
As anyone who has read about, or even seen movies concerning pre-20th century Japan knows, fashion tended to follow very different lines from the West. Clothing normally mirrors the necessities of Japanese life – loose, flowing garments were preferred for activities in the home, for instance. In the middle of the 19th century, Japan began to experiment with, and emulate Western fashion. This was done to bring Japan up to speed, as it were, with the rest of the world. As trends and tastes evolved, eventually something called ‘street fashion’ came into being. Street fashion is defined as a fashion movement derived not from studios but the whims and interests of people, or grassroots. Linked to youth culture, since the 21st century, and probably a bit before that, Japan’s street fashion industry has been sustaining myriad diverse styles and trends.
Blending traditional and contemporary, clothes and accessories that fit into this category are often homemade. However, savvy clothing labels, both foreign and domestic, are cluing in to what is popular – either based on the resurgence of previous styles, or the prevalence of current ones, and releasing a broad array of products in an attempt to satisfy diverse appetites.
Some examples of prominent street fashion in Japan include:
Lolita
Signified by Victorian-era clothing as well as costumes from the Rococo period (late 18th century), this is one of the most diverse and popular subcategories of adornment and fashion in Japan. Japanese youth are fond of a certain ‘cute’ factor in their clothes and merchandise – Lolita epitomizes this to varying degrees, and comes in several varieties, they are:
• Gothic – heavily Victorian, ‘Goth’ style with dark colors
• Sweet – childlike, cute, with use of pastels
• Punk – blends Punk and Lolita
• Classic -Traditional and somewhat staid or mature. Classic focuses on light primary colors – red, green and blue.
Ganguro
Popular among teen and preteen Japanese girls, Ganguro is best exemplified by bright outfits, mini-skirts, tie-dye and platform shoes. Accessories common to Ganguro include fake eyelashes, monochromatic eyeliner, earrings (and rings), bracelets, and necklaces. So-called ‘black facers’, followers of this trend also sport dark tans.
Kogal
Popular in the ’90s, but having since fallen into decline, the Kogal look is based on that of a typical high school uniform, but more sexualized. It can be likened to the United States’ Valley Girl mode.
Bōsōzoku
Similar to Kogal, Bōsōzoku has fallen out of favor since the 1990s. It can still be seen in one form or another in various forms of media, such as anime, manga and Japanese movies. It is typified by jumpsuits, baggy pants, high boots or vaguely militaristic-looking outfits, and is popular among underage motorcycle gangs.
Cosplay
Short for “costume role-play”, Cosplay is a variety of performance art whose participants dress themselves up in diverse and elaborate costumes and accessories. The costumes most often mirror the attire worn by various characters from such digital and artistic mediums as manga, anime or video games. Not quite as common, some cosplayers will dress up as figures from live action roles such as fantasy movies and Japanese musical groups. Cosplay is quite popular with the throngs who attend conventions such as ComicCon in San Diego, Anime Expo (AX) in Los Angeles, or the Tokyo Game Show and Comiket in Japan.
Visual Kei
Popularized by the Japanese entertainment industry, the flamboyant and often androgynous Visual Kei is a hallmark of such groups as X Japan, Malice Mizer, Dir En Grey and Luna Sea. In addition to complex and flamboyant outfits, it features striking makeup and unusual hairstyles.